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Imagination, Style & taste...
...at The Cartwheel, Brookhouse
with Sam McQueen
The reputation of the Cartwheel at Brookhouse for good food has been known far and wide in the area for many years.
That reputation has been lately enhanced by the new owners, Simon and Derek, over the past two and a half years. Varied menus on different lunchtimes and for evening meals, plus an extended and augmented wine list are the mark of mine host, Simon. "People like continuity." he said. "There is a strong customer tradition at the Cartwheel, but I saw that there was also room for expansion." Expansion is not just confined to food and drink as the owners have plans for changes to the actual physical layout of therestaurant too.
We visited on a Saturday night to sample some of the delights which were on offer. Saturday is a regular five course dinner and dance event which was very well attended. Maria and I took two friends as dining companions and we started with a drink at the bar which is readily available as soon as you walk through the door. It is of traditional dark wood which chimes in with the oak beams and cream walls.
We were shown to our table by Leah, the assistant manager, who was very courteous. She worked really well in the absence of Glyn, the manager, who was away on holiday. He has worked at the restaurant for 16 years. The staff, both young and mature, were all amiable and efficient and appeared to be enjoying what they were doing. Our chosen starters were Deep Fried Breaded Mushrooms with a garlic dip, Cured Ham and Slices of Melon with a sweet chutney, Deep Fried Brie with Port Marmalade, and Norwegian Prawns with Marie Sauce. Nine starters were on the menu and those we chose were all put together with imagination, style and were very tasty.
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We were seated in the large dining room which was just about full - the restaurant, which has another smaller dining area between the large one and the bar, can seat around 140 people comfortably. Air conditioning kept the temperature pleasant especially as it was a warm night, and the spaces between tables meant that conversation was easily engaged.
Soup of the Day was our second course, a tasty combination of mushroom and onion. As this was served our observant waitress noticed that I had inadvertently used two knives, one for my brie and a second for the breadroll. Without any ceremony she replaced the knife for my next course and we all felt she deserved commending for a lovely piece of courtesy and care. Our main meals arrrived after a considerate interval.
Our friends had decided on Rack of Lamb with a Mint flavoured demi-glace sauce and the Cartwheel Chicken Fillet stuffed with Duxelle, wrapped in bacon and with a chasseur sauce. The former was spot on for taste, the demi-glace sauce making the whole a touch different, while the Chicken was tender and the bacon accompaniment crispy. Maria went for a fish main course of Tuna Steak for a change with a light, succulent flavour, while I plunged my fork into the Breasts of Duckling with a plum and ginger jus, which were deliciously tender and moist. All of these were rounded off with a fine selection of vegetables, which change according to seasons.
Simon and Derek are happy to continue the tradition of the Cartwheel with its varied menus. But it does keep the Cartwheel chef of about 12 years, Neil, very busy, challenging his initiative on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday nights, and especially now Simon has added Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday lunchtime openings to the traditional Sunday Carvery whose watchwords are "It is no sin to ask for more as it shall be freely given." On top of this the Cartwheel features special events and festive days and caters for weddings, funerals and christenings.
Dessert was a question of what tempted us the most as we were definitely spoilt for delicious choice. Among much on offer we each had a different idea for finishing our meals - sherry trifle, lemon cheesecake, chocolate junkyard and toffee apple cake, all home-made and available with either cream or ice cream. All came in ample helpings and in their individual ways were rich and flavourful. Coffee was served at our own convenience and then the disco started. It was loud and lively and no doubt calculated to get people up off their seats to shed some of the pounds and ounces they had just pleasurably added to their frames!
There is a lot Simon and Derek have in mind for the Cartwheel, but as Simon willingly conceded, "It is a long-term plan of ongoing constant improvement."
Our friends were impressed with the Cartwheel, its level of service, the attentive and accomodating staff and, of course, the fine food and said they would definitely go again. The same goes for Madame McQueen and myself. The Cartwheel, while placing emphasis on tradition and remaining part of the community, is going places.
The Cartwheel - Brookhouse, Rotherham - -1909 563 170
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