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Exploring the Ancient Settlements of Ingbirchworth & Gunthwaite
By Brian Elliott
 Memories flooded back to me when I visited the old village of Ingbirchworth on a bright September morning.
On the way I paused at what I will always call Scout Dike Camp, now Kingswood Peak Venture, opposite Scout Dike Reservoir. As a boy I spent a week there, as part of a school trip, in the days when the old army Nissen huts formed the frugal accommodation. I remember taking part in a number of organised sporting activities, including dips in an extremely cold outdoor swimming pool by the ‘res’ and guided expeditions on foot, to Penistone, Thurlstone and Gunthwaite. I guess my interest in the countryside and local history began then, though I did not realise that I had family connections in the area. The camp was started in 1935 by the former Barnsley Borough Council who purchased the huts which had been erected to house the workmen who were employed in the construction of the reservoir. A US Army transit camp was established across the road during the war years. Scout Dike Reservoir, with its filter house and associated buildings was constructed between 1923-28 and covers 38 acres. It is a popular beauty spot and well known for its trout fishing.
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 Situated on the eastern fringe of the Pennines, Ingbirchworth sits astride the busy A629 Huddersfield-Sheffield road. In recent years the contraction of regular bus services has made the place more isolated for locals with no transport. But there has been a steady growth in population, people attracted by the attractive countryside and historic buildings – and relatively easy access by car to Barnsley, Huddersfield and Sheffield. It has become a linear or street village but walk down one of its back lanes, opposite the Rose and Crown and you will see the nucleus of the medieval settlement. Here a delightful small square or green, carefully restored by local initiative, can be seen with a backdrop of interesting old buildings including Green Farm, Willow Farm and, with its cruck barn, Ingfield. Unfortunately the Rose and Crown has now closed. I remember it during the early 1970s as a place of considerable character, great to visit on a Saturday evening in winter when there was a welcoming fire and piano player.
Ingbirchworth was one of eight townships that formed the huge parish of Penistone. At the time of the Domesday survey, it was described as Berceuuorde, one of Alric’s manors. Variation of the spelling of Ing- or Yngbirchworth appear in late medieval deeds and charters. The original place-name simply means ‘birch enclosure’ but the affix Ing- (meaning meadow) may have helped to distinguish it from Roughbirchworth. The name thus has both Old English and Old Scandinavian elements. There is some, albeit very sketchy archaelological evidence of very early settlement in the area. To the west, about a mile from Upper Denby, at ‘Castle Hill’, is the remains of an earthwork which may indicate the presence of early man.
From the fourteenth to the eighteenth centuries the Micklethwaites were the main family here. They originated from Cawthorne, taking their name from an area later occupied by Banks Hall. John Micklethwaite’s fine yeoman’s house, dated 1624, but probably with earlier origins, survives, now known as The Grange, overlooking the main road. As the Angel Inn it once served the considerable traffic of coaches and travellers that passed this way. The old Fountain Inn (recently featured in last summer’s issue) on Welthorne Lane now flourishes as a country pub, restaurant and hotel. I am old enough to remember it as a free house when Arnold Scholey was landlord. Outside, unsuccessfully braving the elements, was a wonderful old stagecoach. It seemed to deteriorate on every visit.
It was nice to make another nostalgic diversion, down Mill Lane. At the top is the picturesque Straw Cottage. Two of my father’s elderly cousins, sisters Ruby Booth and Annie Acton lived here, when the property was divided into two parts. Both widows, and former Denby Dale mill girls, they lived quite independently of each other, though of course communicated on a daily basis. They referred to their property as ‘Rose Cottage’. I enjoyed visiting them in the early 1980s when researching my family history. A brother, Elliott Holmes was born in the cottage, eventually moving to Clayton West. Their parents, Florence Holmes (nee Elliott) and James Benjamin Holmes, were married at St John’s, Denby in 1902. The Holmes family lived on the McDonald estate at Gunthwaite.
 Dotted along the road are a number of other interesting houses and cottages built in local stone. There is also the Methodist Church, a relatively tall and distinctive gritstone building which continues to play an important part in the religious and social life of the village. The minister is Reverend Ann Staton and the Secretary (and longtime organist) is Marlene Holmes. This fine building dates from 1829 but was substantially enlarged in 1893 thanks to public subscription, the old part become a Sunday School. The first foundation stone was laid by John Dyson and a host of other stones contain the proud names of donars. The chapel changed from Wesleyan to Methodist in the 1930s. The traditional Ingbirchworth ‘Sing’ ended about 20 years ago but is still remembered with considerable affection by older residents. It took place on the first Sunday in July and once attracted visitors from a wide area. In the more distant past they would arrive in their Sunday best on horseback or in wagonnettes and teas were served on the lawns of Ash Lea.
Farming and its associated businesses have always played an important part of life in the village. In Kelly’s 1936 directory most of the entries for Ingbirchworth were of farmers: Sam Burdett (who also served as surveyor and sanitary inspector to Gunthwaite and Ingbirchworth Urban District Council); Mrs A.A.Hanson; Albert Kaye (Grange); George Knowles; Henry Knowles; Job Knowles (also collector for the Council); Charles Cyrus Laycock (Ivor Bank); Joe Lockwood; Luke Mosley (Spicer House); John Smith (Annat Royd) and Edwin Stafford. There was a wheelwright – John William Holmes – and a stonemason – Benjamin Beever. The Beevor family continued as Benjamin Beevor and Son (Builders) and Beevor Concrete into modern times. The old building firm closed Mrs Issabella Horn is listed as shopkeeper and Archie Moorhouse as a beer retailer. Nowadays it is good to see that a local agricultural business survives – Melvyn Carr Ltd – serving the needs of the area.
 Ingbirchworth Reservoir is the oldest of a trio in the area, completed in 1868 and covers an area of 58 acres. It has a capacity of 293 million gallons of water and the dam height is 65.5 feet (20m). I was told that during extreme drought conditions the old bridge over the former stream, known as Summer Ford Bridge, can be glimpsed, and part of the old roadway. The last time may have been in 1976. Another popular beauty spot, the reservoir attracts an excellent variety of birds, including some rare species. Several years ago the CARE (Community Action in the Rural Environment) established a walkway around the site.
Before leaving I called at the local shop and had a chat with the owners, John and Marlene Holmes. I’ve mentioned Marlene already in relation to the church but it was a pleasant surprise to find that John is another distant relative! John, hailing from Gunthwaite, certainly knows the area very well and once served as the village postman. When the local shop closed the couple converted their garage so that the villagers would have somewhere to shop. They have been in their present premises for over 25 years and previously had a mobile ice-cream business. The small, friendly shop sells groceries, newspapers etc and a range of fresh and convenience items much appreciated by local residents. It is the kind of old fashioned shop that is a rarity in the age of the big supermarkets.
 The hamlet of Gunthwaite is a gem of a place to visit though it’s always a good idea to take strong boots or Wellingtons, especially if you want to explore the lovely countryside via the well-preserved bridle and packhorse ways. Although not mentioned in Domesday, Gunthwaite – which means Gunhild’s clearing – has Norse origins so is in fact of great antiquity. At 952 acres it was the smallest of the manors and townships in Penistone parish but in the Bosvilles had the most important resident lords. The first occupant was Thomas Bosville who obtained the Gunthwaite estate following his marriage to Alice de Gunthwaite in 1374. His family seat was at New Hall (on the site of the present Cranford Hall) in Darfield parish. The Bosvilles originated in Normandy and had branches at Chevet, Conisbrough, Wickersley and elsewhere. Godfrey Bosville (c.1570-1580) was the first to live here, erecting a timber-framed house which was demolished after a fire in the nineteenth century. However, the great 11-aisled barn has survived, one of the finest examples in the country. The low walls are of local stone, the roof is slated but the upper walls have posts and panels. It is a remarkable piece of engineering when you consider that everything is fastened by means of oak pegs and is still in use today.
The marriage of Godfrey and Bridget Bosville is commemorated in Penistone church by a fine piece of stained glass, the work of one of the best craftsmen of the seventeenth century, Henry Gyles of York. It was moved to the church from the hall.
When the 4th Godfrey Bosville moved to live at Thorpe in the East Riding their old Gunthwaite estate passed to the McDonalds of the Isles.
For many years local people have ‘taken the waters’ at Gunthwaite Spa or ‘Spaw’. The tradition of the blessing of the well is a very ancient custom and took place on the second Sunday in May. It is described by Vera Nicholson in her article in Aspects of Barnsley (1993): ‘Many people gathered from surrounding districts to see the procession led by a young man with a banner on which were displayed a silver cross, chalice and host. Wearing a black tunic with a bugle over his shoulder, he had a chain around his neck to which was attached a silver plate with the insignia of the Abbot of Pontefract. Behind him came two Benedictine monks in black gowns and hoods.’
The Abbot himself was attended by the vicar of Silkstone and more religious officials. At the well the local gentry would be in prime position, for the ancient ceremony in which the Abbot blessed the water, using the Latin phrase ‘Deus Aqua Sanctus’. Afterwards there would be feasting and celebrations. The water was supposed to have medicinal qualities, a sure cure for scurvy and an aid to arthritis and a number of ailments. According to John Holmes, its smell was pretty awful but was drinkable if you held your nose. Fancy a cup of Gunthwaite tea?
Published Autumn 2006. All information correct at time of print.
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