|
|
Historic Monk Bretton
By Brian Elliott
 Stand at the top of Burton Bank, a short distance from the centre of old Monk Bretton and, on a clear day, you will see one of the best views of Barnsley, the Dearne valley and distant moorland.
Today, the village has become an almost imperceptible part of its urban neighbour but not too long ago the river and the rising high ground contributed to making ‘Bretton’, ‘Burton’ or Monk Bretton (or even ‘Monk Burton’) into one of the most distinctive communities of our area.
On Burton Bank is a Quaker burial ground, now unfortunately almost obliterated, one of the earliest in the country. It was deliberately sited here, a relatively remote, out of the way site, during the early 1650s when religious persecution was rife. Later, during more tolerant times, a small meeting house was erected. This location became a focus for local and visiting Quakers for many years until a new place of worship was established in Barnsley, on Huddersfield Road, in the early nineteenth century. The Quakers or Society of Friends were an important group in the development of trade and early industry in and around Barnsley.
|
 Burton Bank was also the site of one of our most remarkable follies, known locally as ‘Monk Bretton Castle’. It was built as an observatory or look out tower, by a local parson, Reverend Wordsworth. As a teenager I remember visiting the ‘castle’ on a number of occasions. Maybe you can remember it too. It was a popular place for celebrations such as royal events and the end of wars, the lofty site ideal for the lighting of beacons. Deemed to be ‘unsafe’, this landmark structure was demolished rather than restored by the then County Borough Council. Sad, really. What a feature it would be today.
‘Bretton’ is an Anglo-Saxon place-name meaning ‘Farmstead of the Britons’ but the affix ‘Monk’ was added during the medieval period in reference to the Cluniac (and later Benedictine) priory established by the Dearne at Lundwood during the twelfth century. The name also distinguished it from nearby West Bretton, a detached part of Silkstone parish. An alias, ‘Burton’ was also commonly used from the later medieval period.
Monk Bretton Priory, more correctly the Priory of St Mary Magdalene of Lund, started life in 1154 as a Cluniac house, an off-shoot of the wealthy priory at Pontefract. Although one of the smaller monastic establishments of Yorkshire, it has had a colourful and at times tumultuous history. On one occasion the prior of Pontefract carried out what could only be described as an armed assault on its daughter priory, forcing his way into the chapter house, and installing Adam de Nothampton, a Pontefract monk, as prior. Several protesting Bretton monks were taken back to Pontefract where they were imprisoned. In 1279 the dissident Monk Bretton brethren refused to admit visiting officials from the house of Cluny. The Pope was not amused. After constant bickering the small community at Monk Bretton seceded from its original order and, from 1281, adopted Benedictine rule. The ‘black monks’ here were responsible for some of the first industrial enterprise in our area, with iron mills on the Dearne (hence ‘Smithies’) as well as coal mines.
 The site of the priory is well worth a visit, a tranquil oasis despite the presence of nearby houses and industry. The ground plan is just about complete, a quite extraordinary sight compared to examples elsewhere. Of special interest is the prior’s lodgings on the first floor of the west claustral range. There is a fine chimney piece in the chamber. The intact ‘administrative building’ in the outer area is a curious and rare feature. A few years ago the old priory mill was converted into a public house and named The Mill of the Black Monks, following a great deal of work by architect Malcolm Lister. Several years ago English Heritage withdrew the facilities of an on-site resident custodian at the priory. This situation led to the formation of the Friends of Monk Bretton Priory who have worked hard to promote and gain respect for the site, organising a series of excellent community events.
 Monk Bretton remained part of the ancient parish of Royston until the early Victorian period when St Paul’s Church was first built. The early building was replaced, largely by the present structure, in 1878.
The population began to expand rapidly in the wake of the manufacture of linen cloth. Hand-loom weavers are recorded in significant numbers in the 1841 and 1851 census returns. By then Methodist chapels were already well established. Then the sinking of Monk Bretton Colliery (1867-70) resulted in a further migration of workers into the area.
 New housing areas were developed to accommodate mining and glassworking families. ‘Redfearns’ was originally established at Harborough Hills in the Old Mill area of Barnsley by Samuel and Joseph Redfearn in 1862. Its new postwar site at Monk Bretton, close to the colliery, where there was more space for expansion and better communications, resulted in it becoming the main centre of production of an international company, now known as Redfearn Glass. Its social and sports club is located in the old school, near the church. Today, the glassworks and its modern chimneys continue to dominate the local skyline, very much a 24-hour workplace.
 Towards the end of the century three rows of terraced houses were built to the east of the village, near the boundary with Cudworth, and given the wonderful names of Faith, Hope and Charity streets. This area was known as ‘Klondyke’, emerging about the same time as the Gold Rush in North America.
In the late 1960s, one of my first attempts at local history research was to talk to one or two of the elderly residents of the village. One person who helped me was Johnny Weston, a great character, who took me on a guided tour, pointing out interesting features. I remember chatting with him on one summer’s day, sat in his back garden on Cross Street, in the shade of an ancient pear tree. Quite rightly, Johnny was proud to call himself a ‘Burton Lord’. An act of 1609 gave all freeholders of Monk Bretton manorial rights and, since it was not repealed, technically everyone who owned freehold property or land was a ‘lord’ of the village. Johnny was a great cricketer, club captain and opening bat from 1918-1928. After a spell with Monckton he became groundsman at Monk Bretton Cricket Club and was a great supporter until his death in the early 1970s. Johnny’s friend was another local cricketing legend who I enjoyed meeting: Syd Johnson. Well-known for his cunning left-arm slow bowling, Syd started playing for Monk Bretton CC at the age of thirteen and was still taking wickets in the Yorkshire Council League in his early 70s, the W.G. Grace of local cricket. He took ten wickets in an innings on three occasions and, although never a recognised batsman, achieved six centuries. In 1936, at his peak, Syd took 100 wickets for an average of just five runs, an incredible achievement. He died in 1988, aged 89.
 Well within living memory Monk Bretton had many buildings of historic and architectural interest. A great deal of destruction took place during the 1960s when the Manor House and several other interesting structures on Cross Street and High Street disappeared. I was glad to be involved in the successful protest against the demolition of the large barn of Manor Farm at the junction of Cross Street and Westgate in the early 1970s.
It is remarkable that the medieval village cross has survived, converted into a lamp stand in the late nineteenth century and its steps increasingly threatened by modern traffic in recent times. Nevertheless, it remains as one of the best preserved examples in South Yorkshire. It is very unlikely that the cross was sited for market or commercial purposes. No other market would have been tolerated so close to Barnsley. The cross is one of several that linked nearby communities and may have had a religious as well as social function, a place to meet and hear news.
 Today, Monk Bretton is an extensive village with a wide range of modern housing, a mixture of planned public and private developments. There are also a good number of older character properties and public houses. Barnsley MBC, Barnsley College and partners have been involved in the regeneration of parts of the area. A lot of valuable work has been done near the old priory at Lundwood and the Priory Campus is an excellent community and educational facility. The nearby secondary school - Priory School - functions as a successful sports college and the Littleworth Grange Primary Learning Centre is a new development. Across from the schools is pleasant, landscaped open-space, next to playing fields. Monk Bretton is certainly well worth visiting - and do call at the medieval priory, definitely an underrated gem.
Published Winter 2006. All information correct at time of print.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
